Citadel Glazes Review

When the new Citadel Paints were introduced earlier this year I was quite excited about the glazes, and I actually find them quite useful. The glazes are very watery paints and come in four colours: Bloodletter (red), Lamenters Yellow (yellow), Waywatcher Green (green) and Guiliman Blue (blue).

So far I’ve used them for lighting effects on metallic areas such as the power axe on this guy and the headlights on my Land Speeder and they work pretty well. The photos don’t do the effect justice as it is angle dependent, so as you move the glow does too.

The other time that I have found them useful is when I’ve needed to soften highlights, which I used on the hilt of the sword on the scout below.

I decided to try and do a systematic study on the glazes for a project. In the picture below you can see a chart of colours. I’m just using colours from my box, so some will be missing. For instance, neither me nor my boyfriend own many purples.


The columns represent the paints used with the new names following in brackets wherever I used the old style Citadel Paints:

1) Monochrome: Chaos Black (Abaddon Black), Eshin Grey, Codex Grey (Dawnstone), Celestra Grey, Ceramite White

2) Reds: Red Gore (Wazdakka Red), Blood Red (Evil Sunz Scarlet), Troll Slayer Orange

3) Yellows: Iyandun Darksun (Averland Sunset), Yriel Yellow, Sunburst Yellow (Flash Gitz Yellow)

4) Greens: Calibran Green, Warpstone Glow, Scorpion Green (Moot Green)

5) Blues: Ultramarines Blue (Altdorf Guard Blue), Hawk Turquoise (Sotek Green), Ice Blue (Lothern Blue)

6) Greys and purples: Elf Flesh (Kislev Flesh), Liche Purple (Xereus Purple), Shadow Grey (The Fang), Space Wolves Grey (Fenrisian Grey)

7) Browns: Scorched Brown (Rinox Hide), Snakebite Leather (Balor Brown), Tausept Ochre (erm… Balor Brown?)

8) Silvers: Boltgun Metal (Leadbelcher), Chainmail (Ironbreaker), Mithril Silver (Runefang Steel)

9: Golds: Tin Bitz (Warplock Bronze), Dwarf Bronze (Hashut Copper), Shining Gold (Gehenna’s Gold), Burnished Gold (Auric Armour Gold)


The rows represent the glazes used:

R: Bloodletter

Y: Lamenters Yellow

G: Waywatcher Green

B: Guiliman Blue


First a note on the test. In order to try and make it fair I did it on a uniform flat surface which meant that the glazes pooled differently than they would on a model. None of the test swatches looked as good as any of my less scientific try-outs of the glazes, however they are all equivalent, so I can compare them.

As you can see, using glazes changes the colour, which can either be used to create an entirely new shade, or bring two colours closer together (dealing with over-highlighting)

They work particularly well on metallics. I actually really like the effect of the yellow glaze on metallics, it makes golds look really warm. The other colours look less good on gold.

I don’t know what’s the matter with the Bloodletter, it doesn’t seem to have worked as well as the others. That is probably due to my painting rather than the glaze though, as all of the glazes look less good on the swatches than they do on models. The glazes tend to pool on surfaces and with a flat horizontal object, that’s exactly what they do- which is why it all looks a bit ugly!

The glazes can also be mixed to create other colours, particularly oranges and purples. The long silver and white bar down the edge has examples of orange and purple (and a couple of streaks of yellow and green which are there by accident).

So time to wrap this lot up. In conclusion  the glazes are pretty useful and can be used to make some nice effects when used in conjunction with metallic paints. However, as they do change the shade of painted areas considerably, I’d really recommend doing a test piece first.

Flyer rant

I wasn’t going to post tonight- I had stuff to do for a giant review post but I thought I’d share what was on the Games Workshop blog today- particularly the bit at the end:

 “Incidentally, when the Stormtalon came out, many hobbyists asked us on Facebook if they could use it in their Black Templars/Space Wolves/Blood Angels army. Well now, if you pick it as an allied unit to your main army, the answer is very happily: yes.”

Umm… umm… I have to play a whole other codex if I want a flyer? You’re kidding me right? I’m really, really hoping that this is careless writing and that I get to retract this post next week when the new rules come out. I guess that there are a few armies in the same position: Sisters of Battle, Black Templars, Dark Angels (although they aren’t mentioned in the blog post-hmm), Chaos Space Marines, Chaos Daemons, Tau, Tyranids and Eldar don’t currently have flyers although there are rumours of Tau and Eldar having them in future, and CSM and Dark Angels are rumoured to be in line for a new codex. I’m curious to see what exactly is redefined and who loses out. I guess that winged daemon princes (with daemonic flight) will be flying monstrous creatures and Tyranids also have one I think.

Flyers look like they might be quite a big part of 6th, so it’s at best annoying that whole armies are apparently being forgotten, at worst it could make them unplayable in certain situations.

I’m just hoping that I don’t end up adding Grey Knights to my list just so that I can have a Storm Raven…

Space Marine Cookies

We pre-ordered our copy of Sixth Edition yesterday at our local store and I even brought along cookies. The lovely guys at our local GW even gave me a 25th Anniversary poster for them, which was very sweet of them as I had made the biscuits for fun. Unfortunately I forgot to take any pictures, so if you want to see what they look like, you’ll have to make your own. I made Space Marines, Orks and Tyranids (ok dinosaurs- they don’t do Tyranid shaped biscuit cutters) but of course, you’re free to convert them.

The recipe I used was the Be-Ro gingerbread men recipe, but you could use any roll-outable biscuit dough- such as a Shrewsbury Biscuit recipe. If you have kids and they’ve been given a cookery book, there’s bound to be a recipe there. You could probably even use ready-made gingerbread men or a recipe from a box, but that’s cheating!

I wrote out this recipe with my boyfriend in mind, as he can cook so long as he has sufficient instructions, but isn’t confident enough to guess.

You need:

 For the biscuits:

300g self raising flour

pinch of salt

3x teaspoon ground ginger

100g caster (or granulated) sugar

50g margarine or butter

3x tablespoons golden syrup

4x tablespoons milk


 To decorate:

Fondant icing (about 500g) in the colours of your choice

Writing icing

Icing sugar

Some apricot jam


You also need:

Greased baking trays (probably two but I have a tiny oven and need three)

A bowl

A fork

A saucepan

A (wooden) spoon

A rolling pin

a board for rolling onto

A small round biscuit cutter

A gingerbread man cutter (or a dinosaur shaped one or…)

A knife- preferably a palette knife

A cooling rack (if you haven’t got one use the rack from the grill if you have one other wise just cool them on a plate)

An oven heated to 160C (gas mark 3)


  • Make sure the oven is on and that you have greased the baking trays with a little butter or margarine otherwise you’ll have a nice collection of Space Marine Casualties
  • First mix together the flour, salt and ginger in a bowl
  • In a saucepan melt together the margarine, sugar and syrup, stirring as you go.
  • Once it has melted, pour it onto the flour mixture and mix together
  • Add the milk and use your hands to make the mixture into a soft smooth dough. It should form one smooth lump. If it really won’t do this you can add a teaspoon or so more milk, but be very, very careful not to make it too wet. If this happens you can add a little more flour.
  • Dust the board with a bit of flour and rub flour on the rolling pin.
  • Roll the dough out until it’s about 3 or 4mm thick. As you roll, turn the dough round every two or three rolls and occasionally turn the dough over to make sure it doesn’t stick. I prefer dividing the dough into two lumps.
  • When the dough is rolled out cut out equal quantities or circles (for bases) and shapes (you can just do shapes if you don’t want to stand them up). If you have offcuts you can roll them out again to make more shapes. If you want to make chaos marines you can add horns using little bits of dough and stick them on the cut out men shapes.
  • Put the biscuits on the baking trays and put into the oven.
  • Bake for about 15 minutes. When the biscuits are ready they will have turned a golden brown colour (like biscuits should look) but they’ll still be soft.
  • Remove from the oven
  • Leave them on the trays for about ten minutes so they start to set
  • Then remove them carefully from the tray using the knife and put them on the cooling rack to cool
  • Once they are cool you can decorate them. For Space Marines you can use the chapter colour of choice and Orks are obviously green, for Tyranids- go wild 🙂
  • Dust your board and rolling pin with lots and lots of icing sugar. Fondant icing has a similar stickiness to green stuff or milliput and sticks to everything!
  • Roll out the fondant icing to about 2mm thickness. Cut out shapes. Cut out circles for the bases if you’re using them.
  • Spread the biscuits with a little bit of apricot jam and place the fondant on top.
  • Use the writing icing to decorate the figures.
  • Use a little more writing icing to stick the figures to the bases if you’re eating them.
  • Eat them.

They should keep a few days in a sealed tin/ tupperware box if you’re not that hungry! I made about 24 biscuits (with bases) but it all depends on the size of your cutters.

Quick update on the Rune Priest

Well, I did a few more things to my Rune Priest over the past few days. First I gave him a sleeveless robe.

I did this by using thin strips of green stuff with cut outs to allow for the shape of the arms. I joined them up along the seams, which I left rough to make it look a bit scruffy. I also added a couple of bullet holes.

The cloak on the other hand looks a lot newer. Mainly because having spent so long on it I didn’t have the heart to add damage. What I did do was inscribe runes on the outer side and add a belt to gather it together at the shoulder.

The final thing I did was use the runes from the power sword I chopped up for the staff arm to give him a necklace/amulet and string together a wolf tail talisman from the Space Wolves box along with bits of green stuff in the form of fangs, runes and feathers, to add decoration to the staff.

He’s now been washed gently in soapy water in order to wash off any stray Vaseline and he’s awaiting base coating.


6th is coming…

Well it’s here officially. It’s less than a year since I bought 5th edition, and I really didn’t get enough games in, but now I am going to have to learn a whole new set of rules. It’s a little bit pricey, but the euro is not a particularly healthy currency at the moment so it’s only a few pounds more than the UK cost. I’ve got to go to my local Games Workshop to pick up my replacement Iron Hands set, so we’ll probably order it then. There’s a video with pictures of the artwork and photographs up at Games Workshop (and the Dark Angel from the White Dwarf spines features quite early in at the point where the voiceover says “unforgiven”). The more I see their blog and video productions, the more I become convinced that for some things, Games Workshop is still a couple of guys in a gaming shop. The artwork is stunning though! I think it’s why I have so much trouble remembering the rules for 5th edition! I’m distracted by the shiny pictures!

It’ll be another week before I see it and I guess I’ll pick it up from the shop. I’m beginning to see a lot of the next city and it’s still bloody awful! I do however, know the route to Games Workshop, the shop that sells UK produce (you’d be surprised how good things like Robinson’s squash and Warburtons’ crumpets taste after a few years largely living overseas) and the good bookshop very well. I have not, however, done things like get a new battery for my watch, get my winter boots resoled and pick up the junk that I need for my conversion!

Not that I can do much at the moment. Working in a lab has not helped my back one bit this week, particularly as the thing I’m working on involves me first, lugging around about 10 kg of steel (my estimate- it’s at the limit of what I can handle though), and secondly, spending an hour using a sand blaster (which is a tool for cleaning the surface of things by blasting them with jets of sand (obviously). It’s meant for somebody taller than me, with bigger hands (so big that I can fit my entire hand in the thumb of the glove!) and the coatings that I have to remove are stubborn to shift, but if they’re not removed, eventually they’ll flake and spoil the experiment. I’m hoping that liberal doses of ibuprofen and the herbal rub thingy I bought last night and not having to go into the lab or sit in my work chair, might give me some respite this weekend though. Enough to finish the sculpting part of my Rune Priest at least!

Anyway, at least 6th is officially here. I’m looking forward to seeing exactly what it all means!

Of Cake and Cases

Now, I’m a keen baker. I enjoy making cakes and I have a lot of fun thinking up new ideas. Exhibits 1 and 2 are a couple of cakes that I made to give to The Overlords at Salute in April. So, when they announced a quick “what cake would be good for the Overlords” competition at the end of their 100th episode, I quickly thought up the following idea, just for fun.

Vanilla Marine

 “Well, I was thinking a fruitcake, with the fruit marinaded with a mixture of beer and caffeinated beverages. There should be a good sprinkling of mixed nuts. There should be the salt of Ciaran’s tears after a hundred repetitions of his jingle, a Random teaspoon of something from the spice jar, mixed like one of Steve’s jingles and topped with one of Dagmire’s innuendos”

What happened though is that I ended up winning a £100 KR Multicase voucher.

Now, if you don’t know what KR Multicase is, they’re a company that makes carrying cases for gaming, including 40K. What’s nice is that the cases are modular. You pick the outer case that you want, and unless you pick an aluminium case, you pick a card case or two or three or even four to go in it. Then you need to pick, or ask the guys at KR to pick what foam you need.

The foam they use is blue and well, squishy. It’s got a firmish texture- it’s more like a bath sponge than a pillow, so it holds its shape, yet is soft enough to deform to fit and hold a model and protect it. It’s about a gazillion times better than cotton wool, which was what I was using before.

I picked a KR backpack 2 with one case and it turned up last week. Along with the case I also received a surprise KR accessory case (which I’ll briefly describe at the end).

The reason I picked a Backpack 2 is because I travel quite a bit. The closest place where I can game is about 9km away, which usually means hopping on the train or a tram as there is no way that I’m cycling with my models. I’m British although I’m based in The Netherlands so I also want to be able to carry my models and my stuff with me to the UK, so I went with the backpack because it’s convenient to carry and I picked the Backpack 2 because of the space!

So, to describe the Backpack 2… Exhibit three shows my new backpack. It’s a nice size and not too big for me. I’m quite small, so there is a risk with rucksacks that they are too long for me. This one is comfy and I can even sit down wearing it. The straps are padded and webbing lined, so that they’re comfortable and I imagine that the webbing would be nice in hot weather (unlike the storm that’s currently raging outside- it’s June I tell you, June!).

There are also two sets of horizontal straps to hold the bag in place while you are walking. I’ve not tried this bag outside the house yet, but I know from past experience that it makes a big difference, particularly if you have a heavy load and/or are very tired. All of the straps are nicely adjustable and the chest strap can be slid vertically too so that it can be made more comfortable and avoids the embarrassing squished or double boob effects. There are also a couple of smaller carrying straps for when you store it for travelling or want to haul it about the house.

The bag itself has six pockets. The two largest are designed to hold a KR card case each. The next biggest pocket can easily hold a rulebook, codex and the KR Accessory case and there’s even space for a novel at the top. There’s a smaller flat pocket in front of that and there are also two sizable side pockets for snacks or other random bits. There’s even an elastic string thing on the front where you can shove a sweater or a waterproof.

My card case goes into the back pocket and I currently have the front pocket free, either for a future full sized case or even a half case (which is one of KR’s latest innovations). It could also be used for other things. If you pack lightly (and no, refreshing boxers by wearing them inside out is not packing lightly, it’s gross!) you could probably fit a week’s kit in there, so it’d be perfect for a short trip home or for a gaming weekend, such as a tournament, if you’re into that sort of thing.

The backpack itself is black with discreet red and grey KR markings, so if you’re embarrassed about being caught in the city with something that marks you out as a gamer, you don’t need to worry. The second case holding section also folds away neatly, so if all you need is one card case, then you don’t have an empty section flapping around.

I suppose that I should get onto the card case and its contents now. The card case, is, as you might have guessed, made of cardboard. This means that it’s not waterproof, but it is light and the card is rigid enough that it should be fine unless you jump on it or something incredibly stupid like that. If I want to take my backpack out in really wet weather, I might just wrap the card case in a plastic bag just to make certain though.

The case has a plastic handle that acts as a catch to stop the case accidentally opening. Because the case is packed pretty solidly with foam it can be stored on its edge or even upside down without the models being shaken about.

Inside the case is the foam. The beauty about this case is its simplicity. One card case can store several layers of foam which are either “custom”, that is the foam is cut to fit a particular model, or “core”, that is the foam fits a variety of models. So far I’m pretty happy with it. There has been one casualty, one of my Fenrisian Wolves came off his base, but that was my fault for forcing the model a little too much. The Fenrisian Wolves are awkward, because they are rather an odd shape. I managed to fit the rest in without difficulty, so I can’t complain at all.

The last part of this post is about the accessory case, which is a clever little innovation. It consists of a small aluminium case which can be separated into two halves, one for each player. The case itself can be used to store dice and tape measures (both of which are supplied), but it’s beauty lies in the fact that, split in two, it can be used for rolling dice. It’s velvet lined, which looks nice, deadens rattling a bit and, if you do store anything at all fragile in there, it is less likely to get damaged.

Exhibit four shows the whole lot together.

I guess that that is about it. I have to say that I am very impressed by the case and the wonderful customer service at KR. Daryl was incredibly helpful and once everything was finalised, it arrived here very quickly. Now all I need to do with my case is fill it!

I should say an enormous thanks both to Daryl from KR and to Inquisitor Steve and The Overlords for such an amazing prize. Check out both websites!


Edit: I’ve been told that the backpack is actually waterproof! Thanks and sorry!

Blog rolls

If you’ve been observant you might notice that there’s a new sidebar containing links. The second of these is an Overlords blog roll. If you haven’t heard of The Overlords then go and visit their site. They are a gaming group with an online forum, Youtube channel, Facebook page and last, and by no means least, a very successful (and frequently hilarious) podcast.

There aren’t many links yet, but keep an eye on the sidebar because I hope that there will be more in future- and go and visit the blogs. There are a lot of great sites out there!

Ratatosk the Rune Priest part 1

Sorry, I’ve been a bit quiet this week. No excuses, I just didn’t do much!

What I did do this weekend is start a Rune Priest conversion. It all started when Commsnake over on The Overlords forum initiated a modelling challenge. I’ve been thinking about a Rune Priest for a while and as my Iron Hands bits have been returned to the shop, I decided that it would be perfect for the challenge.

I’ve used bits from the Space Wolves pack and the Devastators kit (because they’re plainer). I reposed the legs so that he looks a little more dynamic (I hope). I used a power sword arm for the staff. I removed the sword and drilled out the hand so that I could insert a length of pinning rod. The eagle on top of the staff was taken from the banner in the Devastator kit. I’d spent ages trying to make one until my boyfriend pointed out that there should be one in the kit.

The character is called Ratatosk after the squirrel in Norse literature who spreads gossip between  Nidhogg, the serpent at the bottom of the World Tree, Yggdrasil, and the Unnamed Eagle at the top. Therefore I moulded a snake and a squirrel (badly) onto the staff with Green Stuff.

There’s still a lot to do with this model: I need to add more detail to the staff and give him pelts and cloaks and things. I’m also going to add to the hair to make it look a bit more wild.

Still, it’s a start, and it should keep me occupied in the weekends for a bit!

Oh! I should add that I’ve added a blogroll to the blog. There’s only one entry so far, but I’ll add more in time!


The first of my old fashioned Long Fangs

So, I’ve was quite productive last weekend (hobby-wise at least) and got one of my 1992 vintage devastators/ Long Fangs painted.

He was quite interesting to paint. The old model is far less detailed than the more modern figures that I’ve been painting up to now, but although the extra detail can look spectacular, the lack of fuss on this model is very refreshing and it allowed me to a) paint him quickly and b) add a little free-hand to the heavy bolter.

I find that I actually prefer the back of the old fashioned backpacks to the more modern variants that come with my Wolves, although the nozzles aren’t quite so good. The metal plates and the exposed piping add some character to the figure and I like the overall effect.

You may notice some difference in the basing of these guys. I decided to go for a more snowy look and try out some of the Citadel Mourn Mountain Snow texture paint that I bought on a whim a while back. I put some footprints in the snow using green stuff a while back. I painted the base with Ceramite White, washed it with Devlan Mud, before adding the snow. I wasn’t too happy with it, so I added some of the old snow too.

New Project

So I finally picked up the third and final component of my second Long Fangs pack project…

I’m going to use the Iron Hands Tactical Squad upgrade pack for bionics for my Long Fangs which will be based round the Devastator kit and bits from the Space Wolves Pack box.

I’m not sure what to make of the Iron Hands kit. I’ve never used Finecast before and so far I’m not impressed. Perhaps it’s because I’ve been painting metal and plastic all week but the texture feels rather strange. The sprues themselves look like the shoulder pad that I accidentally dipped in acetone- they’re very rough and look a bit warped. There’s lots of extra sprue and a thin layer of resin joining a third of one sprue together. There are also a lot of bubbles in the sprues. They’re particularly visible on the shoulder pads but they are present elsewhere too. The whole thing looks very rough.

On the other hand the kit does contain two sets of bionic legs, two sets of bionic arms with bolters, a bionic arm holding a thunder hammer, two (badly cast) chest pieces, four helmets and ten Iron Hands shoulder pads.

I think that next time I will just get the Forgeworld Space Marine Character Conversion kit, as although you get less for more money, at least it’ll be all usable without the hours of filling and sanding that the Finecast kit looks like it’s going to need.

I’m going to put the sprues away for a bit though, at least until I make a bit more headway with the painting queue!